How to Train a Horse

The horse feels seen, heard, felt, and gotten.

To get a horse responsive, get them to come toward pressure by releasing pressure as soon as they move forward, such as on the lead line.

You already control forward and backward motion, so now you can further improve on the sideways motion.

1. Standing at your horse’s head, gently tap them on the shoulder, and if needed, point your other hand (that holds the lead rein) to the side.

As soon as your horse moves, reward them by releasing all pressure.

2. Next, stand at your horse’s shoulder, and keeping their head slightly tipped to you, apply pressure to their nearest hip, visually and, if needed, with light taps.

Once the horse steps their hind end away from you, reward by letting all pressure ease.

Now you can use the same hand that draws the horse to you to send them sideways and around you.

1. A lunging whip, the end of the lunge line, or the flags in your other hand can help you apply pressure to the horse’s back end or shoulders, yielding them away.

Aim for a circle of at least 30 feet to avoid getting kicked if they become excited.

2. Don’t try to get a full circle at first. A few steps, reward, then more steps, and repeat until the horse happily walks around you in both directions.

3. Step up to a trot and eventually have the horse canter around you.

You will need a lot of patience for this exercise as the horse may need time to understand.

Quick rewards are also of critical importance.

1. Stand next to your horse’s shoulder, facing forward, with your shoulder against their body.

2. Drape the lead line over their neck like a riding rein.

3. Gently take up the lead rein using your outside hand (the hand furthest from the horse’s body) and softly pulse the rein.

4. As soon as your horse tips their head toward you, release all pressure.

5. Each time they give more, reward with encouragement.

6. Continue increasing how far they flex their head around until they can bend it to you, but never pull on the line (which will turn their nose to you and not their head).

7. When the horse is ready, you will feel them turn all the way to you with their head, with no resistance in their neck or pulling back on the lead.

8. If the horse resists, maintain pressure a little longer until they relax, then reward by releasing all tension and stroking their neck.

9. Repeat on both sides.

You can use the appropriate tack and introductions to back your horse and ride them bitless.

1. With the bridle, it’s essential first to fit the headstall of the bridle to ensure that it fits comfortably.

Some riders do this without the reins, while others do this with the reins and bit fitted.

2. To ensure success, use an advance and retreat approach. 

Take a new tack item closer, and as soon as the horse becomes bothered by it, stop, wait for them to relax a little, and then back off.

It may seem like you’re taking the long way around, but this approach works really well.

3. With the bridle, bring it as close to the horse as they will allow (without any sign of concern from you).

As soon as they look worried or move their feet, keep it at that distance until they calm down, then remove the bridle or move it further away.

You show the horse that you see them and acknowledge their concern by being a good leader.

Continue until the horse will let you place the bridle on them.

4. If you haven’t introduced the bit yet, wait until the horse is happy to have the bridle fitted.

5. Fitting the bridle (without the bit) on your horse helps you estimate the settings of the cheek pieces to accommodate the bit.

Fit the bit to the bridle, then bring the bit (in the bridle) up to the horse’s side so they can investigate it.   

6. I like to play with my fingers near their mouth as I bring the bit to their lips.

As soon as they soften and open their mouth (you can insert a finger in the open space at the side of their mouth to get them to “mouth”), slip the bit inside and keep the headstall up.

Don’t pull on the bit or bang it into their teeth.

7. Slip the headstall in place, and let the horse have time to mouth on the bit. 

Ensure the bit fits comfortably and doesn’t hang or pull in too tightly on the corners of their mouth.

Top Tip: Let the horse eat some grass or hay, or feed them a treat like some soft apple slices to encourage them to accept the bit.

I check if the horse is relaxed with the bridle by performing all groundwork exercises with the bridle on them.

Your horse needs to perform these softly and without resistance before you progress to the next tack item.

Your horse already knows how to circle, but now you want them to accept the bit, move forward more, and come toward you when asked.

1. Fit the bridle and bit. Don’t attach the bridle’s throat latch yet.

Wrap the reins around the horse’s neck, twisting them slightly just below the jaw, and then hook the throat latch through this and fasten it.

The reins will be out of the way, so your horse can’t accidentally step on them.

2. Attach the lunge snap. There are two ways to do this:

Either directly to the inside ring of the bit, or you can thread the lunge line through the inside ring of the bit, over the horse’s poll, and down the far side of their face to the outside bit ring.

This attachment gives you a feel on both sides of the bit and helps so you don’t pull the bit through the side of their mouth as much (if they pull).

3. Use the lunge line and your “forward” hand to point your horse to begin circling. 

Increase pressure with the lunging whip (never hitting your horse unless they aggressively storm at you), and create larger circles until your horse can circle in a 50-foot pen.

4. Keep a light feel on the lunge line. Never pull on it unless necessary.

A soft wiggle should get the horse to look inward at you and lower their head slightly.

Praise and reward by releasing pressure.

5. Lunge to both sides. Repeat until the horse is relaxed and swinging in their step.

1. Work in an enclosed area like the round pen. Have the saddle and saddle pad ready.

I suggest removing the stirrups for the first introduction.

2. Have the bridle fitted. It’s an excellent idea to have a light lunge session so the horse is attentive and listening to you. Then bring them up to the saddle.

Give them as much time as they want to sniff the saddle and saddle pad.

3. Move the saddle slightly and gently play with the saddle pad.

Decide whether today is the right day to place the saddle on their back or if you should “retreat” and do so the next day.

4. Begin by bringing the saddle pad up to the horse’s shoulder, gently rubbing it against their body.

Remember: Advance, freeze, and retreat if they seem bothered.

5. When they are quite relaxed, gently lift the saddle pad onto their back and position it in place.

Leave it for a few moments, then gently pull it away and repeat.

6. Repeat this with the saddle if your horse is still relaxed.

Lift the saddle to the horse’s shoulder, rub it against them, then raise it, lower it, and repeat.

7. If your horse gives you the green light, you can gently place it on the saddle pad on their back.

8. Leave it for a few moments, remove it gently, and do so again.

Look for signs of relaxation in your horse, such as sighing, soft eyes, slack lips, and lick-and-chew.

9. Now, begin raising the cinch or girth in place.

Ensure the girth is long enough to comfortably fit around the horse’s barrel without pulling to the first pin position.

Play with the girth, tightening and releasing in small increments until you can girth up to the position that holds the saddle in place with minimal pressure.

This is a good time for a break or pause until the next session.

10. When your horse is unbothered with the saddling process, the time has come for their first steps with a saddle on.

Take it slow, being wary that they may get a fright when they feel the saddle move on their bodies, and they could potentially bolt forward or buck next to you.

If this happens, circle the horse, letting them have room to sort out their concerns with the saddle.

Having a partner can help you ease them into this new world.

1. Stand on either side of the horse, gently talking to them as you both lower the stirrup down on your side of the horse. 

Gently tug on the stirrups in unison, praising the horse for remaining calm.

You can use the advance, freeze, and retreat principles if they become fidgety.

2. Now, coordinate with your partner, and both apply light downward pressure on your stirrup.

When the horse remains calm, release the pressure. Repeat, and slowly increase the amount of pressure.

Gently bounce the stirrups up and down and check for relaxation.

Introducing weight on their back is an excellent way to prevent them from getting a fright.

1. Strapping a weighted bag onto the saddle is an excellent way to introduce pressure, or your partner can give you a gentle leg-up so you can balance belly down over the saddle without putting a foot in the stirrups.

2. Other ways to introduce pressure are to ensure the saddle is fully girthed up and then place a foot in the left stirrup.

Rest your belly on top of the saddle, and do it again as soon as the horse fully relaxes.

3. When the horse is fully relaxed, gently swing your leg over so you are fully seated on their back.

4. Relax completely, ensuring your horse doesn’t get worried if you are anxious.

5. You can take a few steps with the horse, but it’s often best to wait a minute or two, then dismount.

Repeat the next day and then take a few steps.

If they try to bite, deflect their muzzle with your hand.

Wrap your palms around their nose and acknowledge them in a friendly way.

Tone things down and go right back to the most simple introductions.

Use the advance-freeze-retreat approach to introduce them to the new thing that scared them.

Increase your energy levels and put the horse to work, such as circling them, and when they work well, invite them closer.

Stroke them or give them rest as a reward.

Don’t use food as a reward with such a horse.

If so, repeat the first trust-building steps.

If the horse is not nervous, work on them with activities such as circling and lunging to persuade them that being near you and letting you on them isn’t nearly as exhausting as working.

When riding, use a physical barrier to make the horse stop, such as riding at a fence, asking for the flexion just before the fence.